Check out your sewing machine. There are so many different parts and pieces it can all seem like a jumble of metal and plastic. But each part serves an important purpose. Understanding what the parts do helps you use your sewing machine to its full potential. In this article, we’ll go through sewing machine parts piece by piece and state their functions so you can get to know your sewing machine from the inside out. You’ll learn the names and functions so you can talk shop and troubleshoot problems. With this knowledge, you’ll sew with more confidence and get better results from your machine.
What is a Sewing Machine?
A sewing machine is a mechanical or electromechanical device used to stitch fabric, materials, and other substrates together with thread. It uses a needle with a sharp point that pierces the fabric, with a bobbin that holds the underside thread. As the upper thread is pulled through with the needle, the lower thread is picked up to form a lockstitch.
The basic parts allow you to feed in the fabric, pierce it with a needle to form stitches and advance the fabric to form a line of stitches. Many parts work together, from the presser foot that holds the fabric in place to the feed dog mechanism that pulls it through to the tension adjuster, controlling how tight the stitches are.
With some practice, a sewing machine allows you to join pieces of fabric together, create garments or other items, or apply decorative touches like embroidery or applique. They range from very basic to highly advanced computerized models for both home and industrial use.
Sewing Machine Parts and Their Functions
To get started, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with the main parts of your sewing machine. Once you understand the roles of these essential parts, you’ll be stitching in no time.
Needle bar
The needle bar holds the sewing machine needle in place. It moves up and down to form stitches. As the needle bar pushes the needle through the fabric, the bobbin thread loops up around the needle to form a stitch.
The needle bar is attached to the sewing machine’s arm by the needle bar clamp. This clamp holds the needle bar securely but still allows it to move up and down. The needle bar driver, which is attached to the sewing machine’s drive train, moves the needle bar. This causes the needle to pierce the fabric.
As the needle bar retracts, the thread take-up lever pulls the upper thread tight. The bobbin then pulls the lower thread up and around the upper thread to form a stitch. The timing and synchronization of the needle bar and bobbin are critical to forming even, balanced stitches.
With the right needle and thread, the needle bar is the key to great stitch formation in your sewing project. Keeping it well-oiled and adjusted is important for optimal sewing performance.
Needle Clamp
The needle clamp holds the needle in place and keeps it secure as you sew. It attaches to the sewing machine’s needle bar, which moves up and down to pierce the fabric. The clamp grips the needle firmly so it can withstand the pressure needed to pass through layers of fabric.
Without a properly working needle clamp, the needle could slip or even break while sewing. Always ensure the needle clamp is securely holding the needle before operating your sewing machine. If it’s loose or damaged, it should be tightened or replaced to prevent skipped stitches, broken needles, or damage to your machine.
Pattern/Stitch selector
The pattern selector, also known as the stitch selector, allows you to choose from the built-in stitch options in your sewing machine. It typically features a dial or buttons that you turn or press to select your desired stitch. The options can include basic stitches like straight stitch, zigzag, and buttonhole, as well as more decorative stitches.
Presser Foot Lever
The presser foot lever, located at the back of your sewing machine, raises and lowers the presser foot. Lower the presser foot onto your fabric to hold it in place as you sew. When raised, the presser foot lifts up and away from the needle plate, allowing you to position or remove your fabric.
To start sewing, place your fabric under the presser foot and lower it using the lever. This secures the fabric and prevents it from shifting around. Once lowered, you can begin stitching. When you need to pivot, turn, or adjust your fabric, simply lift the presser foot to release the fabric. Make your adjustments and lower the foot again to continue sewing.
Proper presser foot pressure is important for feeding your fabric through evenly. If the pressure is too light, the fabric won’t feed properly. If it’s too firm, it can damage delicate fabrics. Check your sewing machine manual for how to adjust the presser foot pressure. Most models have a dial or knob to increase or decrease the amount of pressure on your fabric.
In summary, the presser foot lever is a crucial component in holding, positioning, and feeding your fabric for smooth sewing. Learn to raise and lower it with ease, and you’ll be stitching like a pro in no time!
Head
The head holds the needle plate, feed dogs, tension adjustment wheel, and presser foot. The sewing machine head is like the control center of your sewing machine. It contains vital components that manage how the machine operates, such as:
- The needle
- The bobbin
- The feed dogs
- The presser foot
- The tension discs
Reverse Lever
The reverse lever, typically located at the backside of the sewing machine, is used to sew in reverse and reinforce the stitching. When pressed, the reverse lever causes the feed dogs to move the fabric in the opposite direction, allowing you to sew backward over the previous stitches. This helps lock the thread in place and prevents unraveling.
To use the reverse lever, start sewing your seam as usual. Once you want to reinforce the stitching, press and hold the reverse lever. The machine will stitch in reverse, going over the previous stitches. Release the lever to resume sewing forward. Using the reverse lever at the beginning and end of seams, as well as at pivot points, will make your stitching much more durable.
Spool Pin
The spool pin holds the spool of thread in place. It is typically a vertical pin located at the top of the sewing machine. To thread your machine, place the spool of thread onto the spool pin. The spool pin allows the thread to unwind in a controlled manner as you sew.
Without the spool pin, the thread would freely unravel and tangle, creating a mess. The spool pin gives the thread stability and guidance as it’s pulled through the various parts of the sewing machine. For the best results, use spools that fit the spool pin well, not too loose, not too tight. Loose or ill-fitting spools can cause the thread to snag or break.
The spool pin is a small but mighty part that, despite its simplicity, is essential for successful sewing. Take a moment to appreciate this little pin that makes such a big difference!
Slide Plate
The slide plate is the mechanism that moves the presser’s foot up and down. When the presser foot is in the raised position, you are able to place your fabric under it. As you start sewing, the slide plate lowers the presser foot onto your fabric to hold it in place.
The slide plate attaches to the presser bar, which in turn attaches to the presser foot. When the presser foot is in the raised position, the slide plate is extended. As you start sewing, the slide plate retracts, lowering the presser foot. The slide plate is controlled using the presser foot lifter lever or knee lifter on sewing machines.
Raising and lowering the presser foot using the slide plate is an important part of the sewing process. It allows you to properly position your fabric under the needle and presser foot before sewing. The slide plate gives you full control of the presser foot, so you can raise and lower it as needed when sewing around curves or over uneven layers of fabric.
Spool pin for bobbin winding
The spool pin holds the spool of thread that will be used for sewing. To wind the bobbin, place the spool of thread onto the spool pin. Pull the end of the thread through the guide on the bobbin winder tension, then through the hole in the bobbin. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder spindle. Push the bobbin winder to the right, which will engage the bobbin winder. Hold onto the end of the thread and press the foot pedal to start winding the bobbin. Guide the thread onto the bobbin evenly. Once the bobbin is full, stop the machine. Remove the bobbin and cut the thread. Your bobbin is now full and ready to be inserted into the bobbin case!
Take up Lever
The take-up lever, also called the thread take-up lever, is an important part of a sewing machine. Its job is to pull the upper thread up and away from the fabric. Without this lever, the thread would remain stationary and not form stitches.
As the needle plunges down through the fabric, the take-up lever moves up at the same time. This upward motion pulls the upper thread through the eye of the needle, creating the lockstitch that joins the two pieces of fabric. On the upstroke, the take-up lever moves back down to its starting position, feeding more thread in preparation for the next stitch.
The take-up lever is commonly located at the top center part of the arm. It moves up and down, synchronized with the needle bar. Some sewing machines allow you to adjust the position of the take-up lever to accommodate different stitch lengths and thread thicknesses. Proper timing and adjustment of the take-up lever are necessary for even, balanced stitches.
Stitch regulator
A stitch regulator is an essential component that is present in sewing machines. It helps to maintain a uniform stitch length while sewing at different speeds. As you increase or decrease the speed of sewing, the stitch regulator automatically adjusts the stitch length. It has a spring-loaded mechanism that raises or lowers the bottom feed dog to control the stitch length.
When you sew slowly, the feed dogs do not move the fabric much. So, the stitch regulator lifts the bottom feed dog to increase the stitch length. Similarly, when you sew fast, the feed dogs pull the fabric quickly. The stitch regulator lowers the bottom feed dog to decrease the stitch length. This results in even and consistent stitches regardless of variations in sewing speed.
The stitch regulator allows you to sew at your own comfortable speed without worrying about uneven stitches. It gives professional results even if you are a beginner. Most modern sewing machines, especially computerized ones, come with an automatic stitch regulator. It is a useful feature that provides convenience and enhances your sewing experience.
Thread Cutter
The thread cutter is one of the most important parts of a sewing machine. It allows you to neatly trim the thread at the end of a seam for a professional finish.
The thread cutter is typically located behind the presser foot or on the needle plate. It will have a small slit or notch in the metal that the thread can pass through. Some machines have an automatic thread cutter that will trim the threads for you at the end of a seam.
To use the manual cutter, raise the presser foot and bring the threads up and behind it, placing them in the narrow slit. While holding the threads, lower the presser foot. Then, gently pull the threads in opposite directions to cut through them.
Your sewing projects will look much more polished when you utilize this simple feature. Take the time to trim your threads with each seam for the best results.
Throat Plate or Needle Plate
The throat plate, also called the needle plate, is the flat metal plate that sits directly under the presser foot. It has a narrow slot that allows the needle to pass through, guiding the fabric layers.
Without a throat plate, the fabric would not feed properly through the sewing machine. This small but crucial part provides a smooth surface for the fabric to glide over while keeping the fabric taut and preventing puckering.
The throat plate opening around the needle must be precise to allow the needle to move up and down freely without catching or damaging threads. For the best stitching results, select a throat plate designed specifically for your sewing machine model and the type of stitch you want to achieve.
Thread Guide
The thread guide is a key part that helps the sewing machine function properly. It feeds the thread from the spool pin to the needle. As the needle moves up and down, the thread guide ensures the thread flows smoothly without tangling.
Without the thread guides, the thread can easily snag and tangle, preventing the sewing machine from operating correctly. Be sure to check your thread guides regularly to ensure the thread is feeding properly for optimal stitching. Keeping your thread guides clean and lint-free will help your sewing machine run smoothly.
Tension Disc
The tension disc is one of the most important parts of a sewing machine. Its main function is to control the tension of the thread as it is fed through the machine. Without the proper tension, your stitches will be uneven, loose, or tight.
The tension disc consists of two metal discs with a spring in between to provide resistance. As the thread passes between these two discs, friction is applied. This resistance controls how much thread is pulled through with each stitch. Most sewing machines allow you to adjust the tension using a numbered dial. For most fabrics, a tension setting of around 4-6 is average.
When the tension is properly set, the top and bobbin threads will meet in the middle of the fabric. If the tension is too loose, the top thread will be visible from the bottom of the fabric. Too much tension will cause the threads to break or pucker the fabric. Play around with the tension setting using scrap fabric until you get even, balanced stitches. The tension disc is key to quality stitching, so take the time to get it just right!
Bed
The bed is essentially your workstation. This is the flat part of the sewing machine, where the feed dog is mounted. This stabilizes the machine and is where you’ll place projects.
Bobbin
When sewing, the bobbin holds the bottom thread that interlocks with the top thread to form stitches. The bobbin typically sits in a bobbin case located under the stitch plate of the sewing machine. As the machine operates, the bobbin supplies thread through a tension mechanism in the bobbin case. This provides the right amount of thread to form balanced stitches on the top and bottom of the fabric.
Arm
The arm is arguably the most important part of a sewing machine. It holds the needle bar, presser foot, and stitch plate. The arm allows the needle bar to move up and down to form stitches. The arm also typically contains dials or digital displays to adjust stitch length and width, as well as buttons to start, stop, and reverse the sewing machine.
Without the arm, a sewing machine would not be able to form stitches or control any settings. The arm essentially acts as the ‘brain’ of the sewing machine, coordinating all moving parts to work together harmoniously during operation.
Balance Wheel/Hand Wheel
The balance wheel, also known as the hand wheel, is the large wheel located at the upper back of the sewing machine. When sewing, this wheel should spin smoothly as you guide the fabric under the needle. The balance wheel manually operates the sewing machine by spinning the inner mechanisms that move the needle up and down and move the feed dogs forward.
To operate the balance wheel, grasp the wheel itself or the handle attached to the wheel and slowly spin it toward you. This will cause the needle to go down into the fabric and come back up while also moving the feed dogs forward to pull the fabric through. The balance wheel essentially converts the rotation of the wheel into the linear motion needed for sewing.
Without the balance wheel, a sewing machine could not function. So, keeping it well-oiled and spinning freely is important for successful sewing. If it’s not spinning smoothly, your sewing won’t look or feel right. Be sure to service and oil your sewing machine regularly to keep the balance wheel and all parts in working order.
Face Plate
The face plate is the part of the sewing machine that covers the internal mechanisms underneath. It has openings for the presser foot, needle, and bobbin case. The face plate protects these key parts and prevents fabrics and threads from getting caught in the machinery.
Most face plates can be removed for cleaning and servicing the machine. Loosen or remove the screws holding it in place, then gently lift off the face plate. Be very careful not to disturb any of the mechanisms underneath. Use a soft brush to dust and wipe away any built-up lint before replacing the face plate and tightening the screws.
With regular cleaning and maintenance, the face plate helps keep your sewing machine running smoothly for years to come. Don’t underestimate the importance of this seemingly simple part!
Feed Dogs
The feed dogs are the parts under the presser foot that move the fabric through the machine as you sew. Made up of a set of drop feed teeth, the feed dogs grasp the fabric and pull it through at a steady speed as determined by your stitch length setting. Without functioning feed dogs, you wouldn’t be able to sew a smooth, even seam.
To ensure your feed dogs are working properly, clean them regularly to remove built-up lint and debris. You should also oil them as directed in your machine’s manual. If your feed dogs become damaged or stop moving altogether, it’s best to have your sewing machine serviced by a professional to get them repaired or replaced. Well-maintained feed dogs are essential for enjoyable, frustration-free sewing.
Bobbin Winder
The bobbin winder is a part of your sewing machine that fills the bobbins with thread for the sewing machine. The bobbin winder allows you to wind thread onto empty bobbins before placing them into the bobbin case. To use the bobbin winder, you’ll need to:
Place an empty bobbin onto the bobbin winder spindle. The bobbin winder spindle is the vertical pin that sticks up from the top of the sewing machine. Align the bobbin so the wider end is facing up.
Pull the thread from the thread spool through the thread guide. The thread guide is the small metal loop found above the bobbin winder. Pull the thread through the guide and down to the bobbin.
Wind the thread around the bobbin a few times to secure it in place. Hold onto the thread end as you start the sewing machine.
Depress the foot pedal or press the start/stop button to begin winding the bobbin. Guide the thread onto the bobbin slowly and evenly.
Once the bobbin is full, stop the machine. Cut the thread near the bobbin and your bobbin is ready to be inserted into the bobbin case. Your sewing machine won’t operate properly without a fully wound bobbin, so keeping a supply of wound bobbins on hand is a great idea for any sewing project.
Bobbin Cover
The bobbin cover, also known as the bobbin case or shuttle, holds the bobbin in place underneath the needle plate of a sewing machine. Its main function is to evenly feed the bobbin thread to the top of the fabric as you sew.
To access the bobbin cover, lift your sewing machine’s presser foot and needle plate. The bobbin cover will be in a casing below. Gently remove the bobbin cover and take out the bobbin inside. Make sure the bobbin is wound evenly and smoothly, not too loose or too tight. If it’s defective, replace the bobbin.
Put the bobbin back into the bobbin cover, ensuring the thread pulls counterclockwise. Then, place the bobbin cover back into the machine, guiding the bobbin thread through the slot in the needle plate. Pull about 6 to 8 inches of bobbin thread out.
Finally, put the needle plate and presser foot back down. Holding the top and bobbin threads, gently pull them under and behind the presser foot. You can then start sewing. Keeping your bobbin cover clean and ensuring the bobbin is wound properly will help your sewing machine run smoothly.
Presser Foot
The presser foot is one of the most important parts of a sewing machine. It holds the fabric firmly against the feed dogs and needle plate as you sew. There are many different types of presser feet for specific purposes. The most common one is the zigzag foot, also known as the general purpose foot. It works for most woven fabrics and basic stitching needs.
The zipper foot has a narrow shape to allow it to get close to the zipper teeth. The buttonhole foot guides the fabric to make evenly sized-buttonholes. The walking foot has its own set of feed dogs to help when sewing multiple layers of fabric. The blind hem foot is used to create nearly invisible hems. The gathering foot and ruffler foot are used to gather and ruffle fabrics.
The presser foot attaches to the presser bar and lever on your sewing machine. To change feet, simply loosen the screw or clamp that holds the current foot in place, remove it, and attach your new foot, tightening securely. Refer to your machine’s manual for specifics on changing presser feet. The right presser foot for your project can make a big difference in the results.
Needle
The needle is one of the most important parts of a sewing machine. It guides the thread through the fabric to form stitches. The needle should be properly installed and the right type for your sewing needs.
There are many kinds of needles for different fabrics. Thicker needles for denim and canvas, thinner for silk and chiffon. Ballpoint needles prevent damage to knits. Sharp needles pierce woven fabrics. For most sewing, use a universal needle. Check your machine’s manual for the right needle system, as the most common are 130/705H and 135×5.
To insert the needle, turn the handwheel or presser foot lever to raise the needle bar to its highest point. Loosen the needle clamp screw and insert the needle as far up as it will go, with the scarf (groove) facing the back. Tighten the screw securely. The needle should stand perfectly straight for the best stitching.
Replace needles often, at least after every 4-6 hours of sewing. Dull or bent needles can damage fabrics, skip stitches, or even break. Keep a variety of needles on hand, so you always have the right one for your project. The humble sewing needle is a simple but essential tool for successful sewing.
Frequently Asked Questions
The main sewing machine parts can seem confusing at first. Here are some common questions to help you:
What does the presser foot do?
The presser foot applies pressure to hold the fabric in place as you sew. There are different presser feet for different purposes, like zipper feet, buttonhole feet, and walking feet.
What is the feed dog?
The feed dog is the part under the presser foot that moves the fabric through the machine at a steady pace. It grips and pulls the fabric through as you sew.
How does the bobbin work?
The bobbin is a small spool of thread that provides the bottom thread in your sewing. The top thread from the spool on top goes through the needle. The bobbin provides the bottom thread that interlocks with the top thread to form stitches.
What do I use the reverse button for?
The reverse button sews in reverse and is used to lock stitches in place at the beginning and end of a seam. Press and hold the reverse button, sew 3-5 stitches, then release to continue sewing forward. This locks the stitches to prevent unraveling.
Why is my sewing machine making a strange noise?
The most likely causes are:
- A buildup of lint, dust, or debris in the bobbin or thread path. Clean and oil your machine.
- Loose or damaged parts like the belt, bobbin case, or feed dogs. Have it serviced by a technician.
My stitches are uneven; what’s wrong?
Uneven stitches are usually a sign your machine needs adjustment. Check that:
- The needle is inserted correctly and not bent or dull.
- The thread tension is balanced. Loosen or tighten the tension dial.
- The presser foot is secure. Tighten the presser foot screw or snap it into place.
How do I troubleshoot thread bunching up?
Thread bunching up underneath your fabric is frustrating but can often be fixed by:
- Rethreading the machine from scratch. The thread path may be obstructed.
- Changing the needle to a fresh one. A dull or bent needle can cause bunching.
- Adjusting the tension. The top thread tension may be too loose, or the bobbin tension too tight.
Why won’t my sewing machine sew?
Some possible reasons your machine has stopped sewing include:
- No power. For Electric machines, double check it’s plugged in, and that the foot pedal or power switch is engaged.
- A broken part like the belt, bobbin driver, or feed dogs. Have it serviced.
- The presser foot is not lowered. Lower the presser foot onto your fabric.
- The needle is installed incorrectly. Rethread the needle and ensure it’s facing the right direction.
Conclusion
And there you have it, the main parts of a sewing machine and what they do. Now that you know the roles of the presser foot, feed dogs, bobbin, and more, you’ll be able to troubleshoot basic issues and keep your machine running smoothly. Understanding the functions allows you to use the right settings, pressure, thread, etc., for your project. With this knowledge under your belt, you’ll sew with more confidence and get better results.